Celebration Food

Eggs & Chickens

YES!  Good news is that the UK is buying more free range eggs.  See the article in World Poultry.  Of course, the EU is eliminating caged production in the next few years but free range is another step altogether.  Anyway, with Easter coming, at least consider paying up for the humanely produced eggs, please?  Otherwise, you are encouraging the production of the caged eggs in the US.  Of course, if you do buy caged hens’ eggs, I would not eat them!

Info below:

  1. The Perfect Hard Cooked Egg
  2. What is a deviled egg?
  3. Recipes for Stuffed and Deviled Eggs
  4. Middle Eastern Chicken Stew

The Perfect Hard Cooked Egg (More research to come-stay tuned)

Preparing Deviled Eggs or Stuffed Eggs requires the perfect hard cooked egg. For this dish, several key measures ensure success. First, should one wish to achieve perfection, the eggs must lie on their sides for twelve hours or more before cooking in order to center the yolks within the white. Wrapping a rubber band around the egg carton then placing it on its side in the refrigerator simplifies this task. Secondly, the eggs must be at least five days old to ensure that air between the shell and membrane is sufficient to enable easy peeling. To age fresh eggs destined to become Deviled Eggs, the eggs may be held at room temperature for one day significantly accelerating the aging process.

Boiling recommendations range widely among cooks. Some suggest that one bring the water to a simmer then allowing the eggs to cook gently for ten minutes or more. Others recommend turning the water off once it achieves a robust boil permitting the eggs to cook in the ever diminishing heat. The author recommends gently boiling, not simmering, large eggs for ten minutes as this approach ensures properly cooked white and yolk together with an easily removed shell. Salt in the water ensures that any cracks will not leak significant amounts of egg white but rather fill with quickly coagulated egg white. Once boiled, remove the eggs immediately to an ice bath, and as soon as possible thereafter, remove the shell under running water.

Note: I am working with a lab to determine whether the eggs are texturally improved by sitting in the very hot water vs. boiling gently.

Procedures for stuffing the eggs call for the peeled egg to be split in half, usually lengthwise. Crosswise splitting is favored by some chefs with the suggestion that a small slice off the ends permits the halves to stand upright. Once the yolks are removed to a separate bowl, they are sieved or pureed then combined with the ingredients that refill the white. While not universally accepted, modern cooks may use the food processor for the light, smooth fillings in most recipes but often additions such as relish or chopped meats necessitate hand mixing additionally. Once refilled, the egg halves may simply be garnished and served as a cold appetizer or side dish. Alternatively, they may become a core ingredient for another dish which may include sauces, coatings, and additional cooking.

What is a Deviled Egg?

Many terms have been applied to the stuffed egg during the past seven centuries. In current American parlance, deviled is the term applied to virtually all stuffed egg preparations without regard of their spiciness. Even stuffed whites filled as dessert are termed deviled despite the cheesecake, ambrosia or devils food fillings offered in a recent cookbook. In the late 19th c., the term deviled eggs applied to spicy egg preparations regardless of whether the eggs were stuffed. Foods termed deviled or devilled had been described as early as Boswell’s account of a meal of “devilled bones” consumed by Samuel Johnson in the mid eighteenth century. The International Dictionary of Food and Cooking notes that the term deviled indicates a food strongly flavored with a selection of Worcestershire and
Tabasco mustard, cayenne pepper and vinegar. In its 1912 recipe for Deviled Eggs, one cookbook notes, “Deviled dishes are those that are highly seasoned with condiments. They are not considered wholesome as a regular diet, but may be partaken of, on occasion, with advantage as well as pleasure.”

Recipes for the Deviled Egg

So many ways to make such a delicious dish! Below are historical versions which are delicious along with my family’s recipe from the Alabama farm:

The 1930 edition of Delicacies from all the world for the palates of Gourmets provides a typical early 20th c. version of stuffed eggs. The denser filling was not favored by most of my testers against the lighter mayonnaise infused fillings of more current recipes. Smoked ham used as the minced meat imparted delicious flavor although one should add salt only to the degree required. Stuffed Eggs6 hard cooked eggs1 Tablespoon vinegar½ Tablespoon salad oil½ teaspoon mustard2 Tablespoons minced meat, or fish paste½ teaspoon sugar1 teaspoon salt [see note above]PepperPaprikaCut the eggs in halves crosswise. Remove the yolks, mash, and add the other ingredients, mixing the mustard, sugar, salt, pepper and paprika together before adding. Anchovy, sardine or lobster paste gives a special savoriness. Refill the white with the mixture. Caviar may be used instead of a fish paste or may be used as a garnish.

Deviled Eggs Nance (my family’s recipe)

12 hard cooked eggs

½ cup Mayonnaise (may use low fat versions)

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons yellow prepared mustard

2 teaspoons vinegar

Salt & pepper to taste

Paprika

Halve eggs lengthwise, and remove the yolks to a shallow bowl. Mash yolks with a fork or sieve as desired. Mix in remaining ingredients by hand adding mayonnaise to achieve desired consistency. Spoon yolk mixture into egg whites and garnish with a light dusting of paprika. Refrigerate if not to be served immediately.

Make them your own:

Stir in pickle relish or minced onion. Omit the sugar and add curry powder reducing or eliminating the mustard as desired. Add chopped fresh herbs such as dill (which is amazing), omit the sugar and top with herb sprig.

copyright 2006 Nancy McArthur

Middle Eastern Chicken Stew (for 4)

2 lbs boneless, skinless chicken thighs

3 leeks, soaked, trimmed and sliced

¼ cup olive oil

1 ½ cups

1 lb can garbanzo beans or chickpeas

3/4 tsp salt

1 tsp red wine vinegar

Cut chicken into 1-1/2 inch chunks. In a dutch oven or large pot, brown chicken in olive oil and remove to plate. Add leeks to pan and sauté until translucent. Return chicken to pan and add broth; simmer 25 minutes covered, and add garbanzo beans. Cook for an additional 15 minutes, uncovered, or until heated through. Season with salt and vinegar. Serve over cooked millet or with traditional middle eastern bread. (Reduce the sauce further if you wish it to be thicker)

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